Things To Do On A 4-day Visit To The Kochi-muziris Biennale
There’s no better time to visit Kochi than now, never mind the heat. The Kochi-Muziris Biennale, that takes place every two years, began on Wednesday, December 12, 2018. For three-and-a-half months, the historic areas of Fort Kochi and Mattancherry will pretty much be taken over by art as colonial buildings, warehouses, cafés and galleries scattered throughout the neighbourhoods serve as exhibition venues. Aside from filling your senses with art, there’s much to do in Kochi, from sampling terrific Kerala food to touring heritage areas. Here’s a handy itinerary if you have four days in Kochi. Get your Biennale ticket here and book activities in and around Kochi here.
DAY 1
Check out Aspinwall House
The biennale’s main venue is Aspinwall House, an atmospheric, sea-facing building that used to be the office of British trader John Aspinwall in the nineteenth century. It’s possible to spend a couple of days just here as the sprawling structure with its warren of rooms and wide compound packs in a hefty amount of art. If you have just three days in Kochi, spend the first exploring Aspinwall House. When you need a break from the art, have a coffee and locally made biscuits at the open-air café at the venue and gaze at the sea dotted with boats and vessels.
Lunch at Pepper House Café
The charming café is also one of the biennale venues. It’s a former warehouse facing the sea and arranged around a courtyard. The cafe, on the verandah overlooking the courtyard, offers light meals like sandwiches and tall pours of iced coffee and ice tea. Once you’ve revived yourself with food, wander through the art-filled rooms of the place before heading back to Aspinwall House.
Evening seafront walk
Exercise your legs with a stroll down Kochi’s picturesque waterfront. Take in the Chinese fishing nets, which you’ve seen on every tourism postcard of Kerala, baskets of fresh catch being sold on the pavement and the area’s heritage architecture. Walk all the way down to the beach, which is lively in the evenings with tourists and families.
Drinks at Old Harbour
The attractive, classy Dutch-style building is over 300 years old and once used to house English employees of tea-broking companies. For years, it’s been one of Kochi’s most sought after hotels. Have a couple of rounds of drinks in the restaurant and either stay back for dinner or wrap up the day with a meal at Drawing Room.
Dinner at The Drawing Room
The restaurant at Cochin Club is a charming, mango-coloured place that serves Italian and modern Kerala food. Skip the Italian (obviously) and focus on their deftly prepared, contemporary Kerala items.
DAY 2
Tour of Fort Kochi and Mattancherry
Take a guided tour of Fort Kochi and the historic neighbourhood of Mattancherry. It’s best to move around by auto as there’s a fair bit to cover. Among the sites to see are St Francis Church, the Dutch cemetery, Santa Cruz Basilica, Fort Immanuel, the synagogue, Jew town market and the Mattancherry palace.
Lunch at Swaadh
This restaurant in Mattancherry looks like a canteen with its generic steel and tile décor. However, the food is pretty terrific. Sample the light yet flavourful meat biryani and the fiery seafood curries.
Biennale hop
Since you’re in Mattancherry, explore the Biennale venues in the neighbourhood. Many of them are unlikely spots. Like Anand Warehouse, which is actually a godown for chillies. Several rooms in the warehouse are turned into galleries, which means you browse art while breathing spicy air.
Culture at Cabral Yard
Talks, concerts, book launches, film screenings and performances will take place through the day at the pavilion at Cabral Yard. Wind down by attending an event here. For the schedule, see here.
Drinks at Hotel Seagull
On busy Biennale days, Seagull is likely to be packed with artists, curators and tourists, making it one of the liveliest spots in Fort Kochi. They serve wine and beer and delicious seafood snacks.
Dinner at Arca Nova
Once you’ve had your fill of chatter at Seagull, hop over to Arca Nova at Fort House Hotel next door. Right by the sea, the al fresco restaurant serves Kerala food. Dine on toothsome curries and stir-fries as you listen to the lapping of waves.
DAY 3
Biennale hop
Browse shows at other Biennale venues in the Fort Kochi area such as David Hall, Kashi Art Café and Kashi Town House. Take a mid-morning break at Kashi Art Café for a filter coffee or a cold coffee with coconut milk.
Lunch at Koder House
The Kerala beef fry here is a thing of joy. The hotel used to be home to the Koders, a Jewish family, among the many that lived in Kochi at one time. The owners have kept the name. The hotel’s restaurant Menorah serves Kerala food and generic tourist grub; it’s best to stick to the former.
Learn to cook like a local
Take the afternoon off from the Biennale to learn how to make a Kerala meal at a cooking class at the home of a local. First, be guided around a market when you will shop for ingredients. Wrap up by eating what you’ve cooked.
Ayurveda massage
If after three days, your body is feeling the strain of walking from venue to venue (or even if you’re full of beans), treat yourself to a massage at an Ayurvedic spa.
DAY 4
Royal heritage trail
Learn about Kochi’s royal dynasties on this tour of the Hill Palace in Ernakulam, which is not far from Fort Kochi. The final seat of one of the city’s royal families, the palace now functions as a museum.
Biennale hop
Pay a visit to Durbar Hall, one of the Biennale venues, in Ernakulam, after you’ve wrapped up your tour of the Hill Palace. Then spend the rest of the afternoon checking out the event’s collateral projects in Fort Kochi and Mattancherry. While these shows are part of the Biennale, they’re independent of the event’s guiding theme.
Lunch on the waterfront
If you’re fond of street food, tuck into a Kerala biryani or a plate of fried seafood at one of the many stalls that line Fort Kochi’s waterfront for a late lunch.
Culture at Cabral Yard
Talks, concerts, book launches, film screenings and performances will take place through the day at the pavilion at Cabral Yard. Wind down by attending an event here. For the schedule, see here.
Drinks at Seagull
Return to Fort Kochi’s liveliest bar for a round or two of drinks and fun snacks.
For more things to do in Kochi, see here.
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